Lazio's Magic Coast

Empty Beaches Southern Sunsets

In Italy the coastlines stretch on and on. You are never far from a breath-taking stretch of coast. West or east coast, the beaches are golden and sandy; the waves are summer gentle. Just a little north of Gaeta and Formia there are so many  places to choose from. But the area where the rough carved mountains move close to the sea and the campings are hidden in the soft foliage of the trees is where the scenic charms of the central Italian coast unfold at their best.

Here the low mountains and rough hillsides are eroded and craggy. A handful of bushes cling to the sandstone cliffs. The hills are a furrowed wrinkled rockscape and the beaches stretch out endlessly below.

At the foot of the mountains the hills smooth out into a narrow plain, and it is here that a scattered collection of accommodation options have taken root, most politely tucked in amongst the trees. The road snakes along, sometimes on the edge of the coast. Other times the cafes and camping grounds edge the beach and the road is pushed discreetly back into the foot of the hills. The cafes and restaurants are most often alongside the beach, all with outdoor terraces making the most of the endless views of surf and sand. Most offer accommodation - some providing cabins and camping, others a little more upmarket; -  all low rise, all at least a little understated. T|here are no glitzy chains to be seen along these golden beach fronts...




In the mornings the beaches are empty, the sun umbrellas not needed. Outside each terrace-deck and stretch of beach there can usually be seen someone smoothing, sweeping, re-grooming the sand into a pristine golden sheet ready for the beach-goers and customers later in the day. As the sun climbs, the sun worshipers arrive, the beach umbrellas come out, and precious hours are shared with sun and sea. Late in the day the restaurant terraces fill up, the sun begins to set, the hillsides turn amber, the sea turns to fire; - and the patrons sip their wine and enjoy fine fare and good conversation late into the night.

Also Pip McCurdy's New Zealand posts:

Pip McCurdy on the Road - Blogspot

http://www.unusualstays.com/

https://www.facebook.com/Stay-Somewhere-Strange-273777766054597/