The Trabucchi of the Gargano Peninsula

At Last, The Trabucchi

The uniqueness of the Gargano Peninsula is truly captured by one specific and unusual feature. This is something you will see nowhere else in Italy. Furthermore it is a feature which is declining - only a few remain. These are the wild and fabulous trabucchi - the essence of the Gargano Peninsula and the Puglia way of life. Puglia still stands alone in Italy. - its lifestyle and its customs a little apart, a little different, uncompromising, unwilling to be fully assimilated.


The trabucchi are fabulous creations; - spindly, wired, their long tentacle arms reaching out into the sea, sometimes with their nets dangling ready to be raised or lowered into the frothing waters below. These trabucchi sit perched on the very edge of the rugged coast, leaning out into the ocean.
They are few and far between. Some are abandoned, some still operate. Their construction is thin and lean - tall poles, boarded walls, a meagre roof, Cables anchor their spindly pole masts back into the cliffs as they lean outwards over the ocean. It is a miracle they survive, for the Adriatic can whip up a mighty storm at times.


The trabucchi are not easily seen as you drive the highway on the cliffs above. Often they are down far below, tucked almost out of sight. But they are worth seeking out. There is at least one trabucco -  near to  Peschici, - which has a restaurant attached. Here the freshest of fish are served and the wine flows freely. This trabucco restaurant is again right on the rocky coastal cliffs - in parts suspended out over the water. On most days the sea spray will drift over you as you dine, and occasionally the waves will crash right over the decks.


This is wonderful architecture - at one with the land and the sea, made from weathered timbers and from the discarded poles of prior trabucchi, divided into booths and areas by suspended fishing nets, decorated by colourful buoys, There is little cover, - the restaurant is only open during the summer months and even then unseasonable storms can still roll in, temporarily closing the restaurant. But this is the time to come, when the sun shines warm and the sea seethes and boils but remains at bay.

Apparently the Phoenicians brought the trabucchi style of fishing to Italy, having seen this in China where similar still remain. In Vietnam, in India and no doubt elsewhere, you will see these fishing net contraptions over rivers and sea. Today the few that still stand in Puglia are protected, so will remain, However there will still always be weather and time to contend with.

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Trani, Southern Italy

A Safe Harbour

Sometimes history's choices may seem harsh but with time the greatest injustices may have the best results. Trani was once the most significant and prominent port on the Adriatic Sea. It was the capital of the Apulia province. It was the centre of trade and foremost in importance in its region. However times change and the neighbouring city of Bari gradually overtook Trani in prominence and stature. The result is a small city or large town which is all about its harbour, its fishing industry, its gentle pace and its waterfront with its unbeatable picturesque appeal.







In Trani you will want to stroll, to observe, to photograph. The waterfront park is a peaceful and attractive spot. The harbour is full of a mixture of pleasure crafts and fishing boats. The seafood is of course the freshest.









Each morning the waterfront comes alive as the fishing fleet returns to port. Umbrellas are raised against the rising sun - or sometimes the rain, - and the catch is sold to those who come to buy. Here you will see sole, globy, benny, pipefish - all caught in the early hours of the morning; -  the freshest of fish available to you - but more likely to the local restaurants where you will eat and enjoy.

Trani Cathedral overlooks the waterfront adding height and grandeur to the ever-changing sea front. It is a twelfth century cathedral, significant for its sensitive proportions and tall tower which overlooks the harbour and can be seen through unexpected view-shafts throughout the town.

Trani is not a place of spectacular tourism or outstanding sights, but it is a casual friendly town of manageable proportions where it is easy to simply hang out and feel very much at home. Additionally it is a town of great beauty with a harbour of exceptional drama, surrounded by buildings from multiple centuries, all gathered together to create a street-scape which is unpretentious but authentic.











Trani is not essentially a tourist town. It is a town where you can meld in with the locals and gain an understanding of daily life in small-town southern Italy as the locals go about their business. This pretty town will welcome you as you enjoy and explore the area, but do not expect a town catering to the tourist trade. Rather, expect to gradually assimilate. Given time you may be treated as a local, -  a true chance to understand the spirit of southern Italy,

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Apulia or Puglia - Perfect by Any Name

Ultimate Paradigm

They say that Apulia or Puglia as it is also known, is the savvy destination for the Italian tourist seeking sun, sea, beaches history, and fine Italian fare. In fact Apulia is the province with all the beauty of the more popular travel spots in Italy but without the general influx of tourists that you will find in parts of the Sorrentine Peninsula or further north on the Italian Riviera.



The seaside towns of Apulia are full of charm. Each has grown from a small fishing village to encompass a growing population and yes there are tourists, but the local culture is not overwhelmed. Each has a more hardcore city centre, but around the waterfront the old towns remain. This is a coastline of sun bleached villas and casual markets. It is a coastline where the fish are still sold as the catch comes in, and the cafes offer the freshest of fare. Small tables are clustered outside these cafes and the locals sip their coffee or their wine. The roads are often quiet and the sun warms the air.


In Polignano a Mare the high cliffs tower over the white sand beaches. On top of the cliffs the rectangular white walls of the houses with their roof top terraces, look out onto the Adriatic and beyond. Numbers of caves dot the cliffs, worn and eroded by the waves. In one of those caves an enterprising hotel has made the most of the opportunities of the area and you are able to dine in this restaurant -in-a- cave with tables facing out over the waves washing up the cliff face below. In Torre a Mare the small town is dominated by its sixteenth century tower. This iconic small town is a favourite holiday destination for native Italians, as close as it is to the region's premium town and departure point of Bari.

Monopoli -  a little to the north of Bari - is gritty and industrial in its newer area, but there is an azure blue sea, a sparkling beach and a sheltered boat harbour where you will see the bright colours of the fishing fleet drifting lazily at anchor, reflecting off the water, and the white washed walls of the town glistening in the sun. The Old Town is pristine and spotless, Monopoli takes pride in its colourful hanging pots and planters where the flowering vines tumble down in prolific confusion.

Dotted around the Apulia region the occasional Trulli still persists - usually a single conicle outpost standing alone on the edge of a field. As the road weaves north the Trulli are eventually left behind - unique to one small region of Italy.

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Otranto and its unique Cathedral in southern Italy

In Memory of the Martyrs

On a coast of glorious beaches, numerous solidly defensive castles, all day sun, turquoise blue seas and endless mellow walls of cream and gold, there lies Otranto. This is the town that resisted invaders and fought for its survival. This is the town where the martyrs died and this is the town where the ossuary displaying the bones of the martyrs can be found.




The Cathedral of Otranto is a sombre place. It is a place to gaze upon the bones of those who fought for Otranto's survival, and to think back on the sacrifices that were made. It is because of these persons - now so gruesomely displayed - that Otranto stands as a proud and independent town today. Did these fighters save Otranto and preserve it for future generations? This is not an easy question but one can be certain that this is what those who died believed. They were fighting for the preservation of the town and the life and country that they loved.












The siege of Otranto took place in the fifteenth century. It was the last attempt by an Ottoman force to conquer southern Italy. The legend is that the 813 martyrs were those who refused to convert to the religion of the invaders and were therefore slaughtered. Whilst like all legends there are some questions as to the facts, it is clear that many did die and their bones were preserved. The Ottomans after less than a year failed to receive reinforcements and retreated. The Siege of Otranto was over. Perhaps the 813 who died did make a difference.




The cellar under the Cathedral of Otranto is an array of graceful columns and soaring arches supporting the nave above. It is a play of light and shade, a graceful and impressive crypt that invokes a sense of hushed awe. Above, in the heart of the cathedral is an intricate tiled floor and a magnificent tessellated  mosaic ceiling, both telling encrypted stories of the mysterious past. At the altar the candles stand tall, the marble surfaces retreat in layered tiers to the cross and a pensive statue of Mary. Behind this altar are three tall cases built into the walls of the cathedral, each filled with the bones of the martyrs. Grim and unforgettable, these are the relics that tell the tale which makes Otranto so notable, These are the bones of those who died. This is what is left.

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Italy's Gallipoli

The Fortress Town

In a northern bite of the Ionian Sea are some of Italy's most perfectly formed coastal towns, and Gallipoli is one of these. Here the ocean wraps calmly around the coast in stretches of golden beach, small bays and sheltered harbours.



Fishing fleets cluster in the port area of Gallipoli and here too the occasional cruise ship may pull in to berth for the night. The sun beats down in a permanent summer glow. The outdoor cafes never close. The waterfront promenades are much used. The shops spill out onto the pavement where the rain rarely falls.















Gallipoli is a quintessential southern Italian town, steeped in history, rich in the signatures of its past. On a small island off the coast but connected to the modern city by bridge, the Old Town is perfectly captured and remains in tact. The streets twist and turn; the beaches fringe the island; the castle staunchly guards the harbour.







With its muscular, stocky tower walls and its impregnable frontage here is again a castle built in the Aragonese style; a style found up and down the southern Italian coast. Originally spreading out from a small Spanish kingdom the Aragonese Empire at one time ruled over large portions of southern Italy, Greece, France, and of course Spain where it originated. The polygonal walls and rounded towers are the signature of the Aragonese fortress and can be seen in a number of port towns in southern Italy.


















In Gallipoli the open air cafe/bar at the top of a waterfront tower is the ideal spot to pause and enjoy the warm coastal breezes after strolling through the heart of the Old Town. Gallipoli is casual and relaxed - not part of the standard tourist trails but perhaps more appealing because of this.







In Gallipoli there are amazing Baroque facades richly carved in limestone to admire; there are yachts moored in the shadow of the castle walls; here are golden sand beaches to enjoy; there are ancient bridges, historic churches and of course the twisting maze of Old Town back streets to wander.

Gallipoli is a town with a clear separation between old and new, yet one is an easy walk to the other. It is an eminently walkable town, an eminently appealing town, and one that has surprisingly managed to slip through well below the radar of the drive to modernise and industrialise.

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Taranto - a town of gritty beauty

Working the Docks

Taranto - an amazing city of industrial chimneys and factories, juxtaposed with fabulous waterways and harbours: a city of purple hazed skies and sparkling seas; a city of pleasure crafts and waterfront promenades alongside a twenty four hour port and a harbour of battleships at the ready.

Taranto has history by the handful. Its Borgo Antico is gritty, old and unadulteratedly true to its past. In fact it is lucky to have even survived its past, and its torrid role in the wars of the twentieth century. With its harbour having always been a crucial home to Italy's naval fleet this beleagured city has found itself a target in any conflict. The Borgo Antico is constricted by a boundary of seas on all sides. Here the old city survives, tattered, ragged and real. Its colours are pealing, its walls are patched and repaired. Interspersed amongst its narrow streets are the arches and the decorative lights that bring so many Italian towns to life in the dusk.

Taranto is known as the Town of Two Seas.  - Mare Grande and Mare Piccolo. Bridges link the sides of an inlet separating the seas, except when the great swing bridge is lifted to allow access to the inner harbours. The protected nature of the harbour makes it a sought after berth for the many fishing boats which trawl the Ionian Coast.

At the entry to the Mare Grande is the Aragonese Castle. This castle was used as a fort to help protect the harbour, and then also as a prison in times past. The castle may look untouched by the battles which raged, but in fact it is magnificently repaired to its former glory. Its rounded battlements, its squat walls and tiny windows present an impregnable face to the ocean.

Beautiful Taranto is the holder of one astonishing statistic -  it has been declared the most polluted city not just in Italy but also in Western Europe. This unenviable title owes its origin to the industries and in particular the steel mills which are scattered around the edges of Taranto. Although work is being done to reduce emissions and control pollution in the area, the fight is by no means won. Just one more battle in this city's long and difficult history.

Astonishingly the city remains a city of great charm and beauty. For a large city it remains compact and walkable.

Its divided parts create pockets of history, areas of intimacy and architecture unlike any other city in Italy. Its harbours, bridges and boardwalks define a multitude of quarters, each with a unique style and attraction, all against a background of tall chimneys and billowing clouds rising up into the sky.

Also Pip McCurdy's New Zealand posts:

On Blogspot, Pip McCurdy on the Road

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